(a) A wave with a period T = 8s and height H = 5.5m propagates over an area where the water depth d = 15m. Find the local horizontal and vertical velocities and accelerations at an elevation 5m below the still-water level when θ = 2πx/L – 2πt/T = π/3 radians. Relate the water particle to its position along its orbit and the free surface overhead.
(b) A deepwater oscillatory wave has a wavelength L₀ = 156m, a height H₀ = 2m and a celerity C₀ = 15.6m/s. The wave moves shoreward with its crests parallel to the depth contours.
(i) Calculate the wave height for the given wave when the depth is 3m.
(ii) Determine the rate at which energy per unit crest width is transported towards the shoreline and the total energy per unit width delivered to the shore in 1 hour by the given waves.